Also known as Istanbul Islands, there are eight within one hour
from the city, in the Marmara Sea. Boats ply the islands from Sirkeci,
Kabatas and Bostanci, with more services during the summer. These
islands, on which monasteries were established during the Byzantine
period, was a popular summer retreat for palace officials. It is
still a popular escape from the city, with wealthier owning summer
houses.
Buyukada
The largest and most popular is Buyukada (the Great Island). Large
wooden mansions still remain from the 19th century when wealthy
Greek and Armernian bankers built them as holiday villas. The island
has always been a place predominantly inhabited by minorities, hence
Islam has never had a strong presence here.
Buyukada has long had a history of people coming here in exile
or retreat; its most famous guest being Leon Trotsky, who stayed
for four years writing ‘The History of the Russian Revolution’.
The monastery of St George also played host to the granddaughter
of Empress Irene, and the royal princess Zoe, in 1012.
The island consists of two hills, both surmounted by monasteries,
with a valley between. Motor vehicles are banned, so getting around
the island can be done by graceful horse and carriage, leaving from
the main square off Isa Celebi Sokak. Bicycles can also be hired.
The southern hill, Yule Tepe, is the quieter of the two and also
home of St George’s Monastery. It consists of a series of chapels
on three levels, the site of which is a building dating back to
the 12th century. In Byzantine times it was used as an asylum, with
iron rings on the church floors used to restrain patients. On the
northern hill is the monastery Isa Tepe, a 19th century house.
The entire island is lively and colourful, with many restaurants,
hotels, tea houses and shops. There are huge well-kept houses, trim
gardens, and pine groves, as well as plenty of beach and picnic
areas.
Burgazada
Smaller and less of a tourist infrastructure is Burgazada. The famous
Turkish novelist, Sait Faik Abasıyanık lived here, and his house
has been turned into a museum dedicated to his work, and retains
a remarkable tranquil and hallowed atmosphere.
Heybeliada
‘Island of the Saddlebag’, because of its shape, is loved for its
natural beauty and beaches. It also has a highly prestigious and
fashionable watersports club in the northwest of the island. One
of its best-known landmarks is the Greek Orthodox School of Theology,
with an important collection of Byzantine manuscripts. The school
sits loftily on the northern hill, but permission is needed to enter,
from the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate in Fener. The Deniz Harp Okulu,
the Naval High School, is on the east side of the waterfront near
the jetty, which was originally the Naval War Academy set up in
1852, then a high school since 1985. Walking and cycling are popular
here, plus isolated beaches as well as the public Yoruk Beach, set
in a magnificent bay. There are plenty of good local restaurants
and tea houses, especially along Ayyıldız Caddesi, and the atmosphere
is one of a close community.
