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For a relaxed drink, small bistros such as Kaktüs and Cadde-i Kebir in Imam Adnan Sokak or Cafe Urban, a converted Art Deco Jewish patisserie tucked in an alleyway off Istiklal Caddesi/Turnacibasi Sokak, at Kartal Sokak 6, are mid-priced European-style bistros serving espresso, light meals and drinks. Pia at Bekar Sokak and Istiklal Caddesi is another good bet. Above Kaktus, Ora is a studenty, Anatolian-style bar with cheap meals, cheap beer and Turkish traditional instruments hanging on the wall for anyone who feels like striking up a tune. Hayal Kahvesi, at Büyükparmakkapi Sokak 19, is a café-bar during the day but live music starts at 2300, as does the cover charge. Bilsak 5, Soganci Sokak 7, off Sirasilveler Caddesi, is a relaxed, mixed gay/straight bar frequented by artsy types.

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